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Cutting our chicken feed bill by 65%

Our oldest child holding all three of our first laying hens

When we first started with three hens in our urban backyard, we bought the best feed we could find – certified organic North American grains, corn-free and soy-free – and there were plenty of kitchen scraps from our own kitchen and our neighbor’s to go around, plus grass and bugs in the yard of course!

Once we moved to our farm, our flock began to grow and over the years as we started offering more hatching eggs our feed bill grew significantly, along with our flock. Then inflation started impacting the cost of feed at the same time sales started diminishing. When hatching egg sales slowed down for the season earlier than previous years, we knew we needed to reduce our cost. We were paying almost $1,400 per month on chicken feed! We paused hatching egg sales and began to experiment with cost saving ideas…

Ideas for reducing your chicken feed bill:

  1. Keep your flock just large enough to provide the number of eggs your family eats. Supplement your chickens with your kitchen scraps and garden refuse! If you haven’t fallen prey to “chicken math” yet, count yourself blessed!
  2. If you do find yourself with more chickens than you need for eggs, start filling your freezer. We have butchered many chickens this year, but it seems we never keep up with the broody hens that keep turning up with more baby chicks for us to raise!
  3. Buy feed from a local distributor (or become one yourself if there aren’t any in your area) to save up to 50% off the price of shipped feed. If you serve as a distributor you get a wholesale price on the feed you purchase, and you can make a small profit on each bag you sell.
  4. Buy feed in a 2,000 pound tote, which can be stored for several months as long as you can keep rodents out of it!
  5. Purchase individual grains and mix your own feed (this is how we saved the most!)

On to our experiments! (We tried all but #1 above during the last year…)

Tote delivery

Chicken feed tote
Taking delivery of a tote of chicken feed

At the beginning of the last hatching egg season we bought a 2,000 pound tote of the chicken feed. A tote of feed sits on a 4×4 pallet and is about 4 feet tall as well when it’s full. It’s basically a very large square bag made of woven plastic material and you can fold down the sides as you empty the feed. The price per pound for a tote of feed including delivery was $0.95 instead of $1.70 for the same exact organic, corn-free, soy-free feed we previously bought by the bag (a 45% savings per pound). This is a great option if:

  • A large truck can easily enter your property
  • You can move a pallet with 2,000 pounds on it or you are willing to put in the work to transfer the feed to smaller containers. (It wasn’t nearly as hard as we expected!)
  • You have a garage, barn or other covered place to store a large tote or the containers you transfer it to
  • You can keep rodents out of the feed until it’s used

Getting a large truck to maneuver on our property is a hassle, so we decided not to reorder this way.

Monthly pick up

After hatching egg season ended, we decided to try switching from delivered feed to a monthly pick up of non-GMO feed from a local farm, which brought the cost down to $0.76 per pound (a 55% savings per pound). This particular local farm is not certified organic, but is still corn-free and soy-free, non-GMO and the farm uses regenerative farming practices.

I had saved eggs from before we switched feed so I was able to compare side by side.

This feed seemed great at first! But then I started noticing that our chickens’ eggs were not the same quality they had been. I started looking at the difference in ingredients from our previous feed and watching more closely what our chickens were eating. It turned out that the protein content in the feed was partly relying on alfalfa pellets, and our chickens did not eat any of the alfalfa. So that protein we were paying for was being left on the ground and I suspect the change in our eggs was due to our chickens not getting enough protein.

DIY chicken feed

Our DIY mixed whole grain chicken feed

When I was trying to decide what to do next, I learned of a family who feeds their chickens wheat soaked in milk from their cows, which got me thinking about trying a more DIY option.

I put together a feed formulator to make sure I was getting enough protein in the mix (which is the main thing that can easily fall short when feeding chickens grains). We purchased individual grains to combine ourselves, which are less expensive than pre-mixed chicken feed. Over several months I tried out different combinations of ingredients to see what worked best for our chickens until I found a mix where the ingredients met their protein needs and I was sure they were actually eating it all!

Observations of DIY chicken feed and protein ingredients in chicken feed

Ideally we want our chickens eating at least 16% protein.

  • Our chickens favorite grain/seed ingredient by far is black oil sunflower seeds – they always pick them first when given a choice of grains and seeds. BOSS are 16% protein.
  • Our chickens love wheat next after BOSS and it’s the least expensive grain we buy so it helps keep the price down, but wheat is low in protein at 11%. (Corn or soy might be less expensive but we do not feed any corn or soy to our chickens.) Another popular and inexpensive grain for chickens is barley, but with the protein as low as 7% we decided not to use it.
  • Oats are also the right proportion of protein at 17% and offer some health benefits for chickens that are different from other grains.
  • Peas are higher in protein, but we discovered our chickens would only eat some peas and ignore the rest (I found they will eat a maximum of just over 5% peas).
  • Milk is another ingredient with the right amount of protein, plus it includes minerals, helps moisten the dry grains and it’s free if you have extra from your own cow!
  • To give the chickens a big protein boost and to include something that’s not a plant, we add dried black soldier fly grubs. Grubs are the first thing our chickens eat before any grains. Chickens are omnivores after all!

After playing around with these ingredients I figured out a DIY chicken feed recipe that costs us $0.60 per pound (a 65% savings per pound)!

This is the recipe I created (shown in the formulator I made so that you can come up with your own recipes):

Ready to create your own DIY chicken feed recipe?

Get the editable version here.

Happy formulating!

XO Sarah

PS Here are a couple more tips for DIY chicken feed:

Store opened grains in metal containers to keep mice out!

If you feed all your chickens in one place, there’s no need to worry about mixing. You can just measure the right amount of each grain and they will pick through it.

If you have chickens in separate groups like we do, keep two buckets near your grains. Measure your grains for the day into one bucket and then pour back and forth once or twice until everything is evenly distributed and then you know each group of chickens is getting the right ratio of each grain.

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Packing Hatching Eggs

Q: “Would it be in the scope of this course to show how you pack the eggs to ship? I’ve received eggs from several people over the years but I noticed yours are the most well- packed and eco-friendly!”

A: I received this request to share how I pack hatching eggs in the course forum, but I thought I would share on the blog for hatching egg customers to see too!

Feel free to ask any follow up questions in the comments.

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Deworming – not just for livestock!

If you have chickens or any other livestock, I bet you’re familiar with the idea that deworming is beneficial for them (after all they eat off of the ground and seem to love drinking the least fresh water they can find 🤪)

…but did you know you and your family can benefit as well?

If you’ve ever noticed moods, energy or sleep are thrown off around the full moon – it could be because that’s when parasites are most active. This makes it a great time to support your body in flushing them out!

You can start up to a week before and continue up to a week after the full moon, or you can do just a couple days on either side of the full moon. I’d start with less and increase if you don’t see results.

What do we use and why?

We use Oregano Vitality and Clove Vitality essential oils (plus a couple of bonus options I’ll share at the end).

Oregano Vitality will help to break down the biofilm parasites hide in and support the body’s ability to restore balance by eliminating an abundance of undesirable parasites. Clove Vitality will kill eggs so that new parasites don’t immediately take their place. 

If you’re doing the full two weeks, skip clove on days 1 & 2.

Recipe

  • 2 drops oregano
  • 1 drop clove

For adults:

  • Add oils to a clear veggie capsule and top with carrier oil

For kids:

  • Rub oils on the bottom of their feet at bedtime. Make sure they don’t touch their feet (it can sting if they touch their eyes after).

For animals:

  • Add oils to feed or water.
  • If adding to feed we soak it in water, skimmed milk or whey.
  • If adding to water we also add 1 spray of Thieves cleaner to emulsify (otherwise the oils float on top of the water).

That’s it! Grab your supplies now before the next full moon comes around!

PS If you’re wanting to take it to the next level, ParaFree soft gels are formulated with an advanced blend of some of the strongest essential oils studied for their cleansing abilities! And ParaGize is blended specifically to support your animals’ natural cleansing system. See my Parasite Cleanse and ParaFree highlights for more info.

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What one supplement do all livestock need?

There’s one supplement we give to every animal on our farm – cows, sheep, poultry, pig and even our guardian dogs!

We give it because of how much it provides in bioavailable minerals, which effect their ability to stay well and thrive in so many ways, especially during our current times of depleted soils making everything growing in them deficient.

So what is it? Kelp, specifically Thorvin kelp.

Here’s some info from the company’s website:

Thorvin is a 100% natural feed supplement for supporting optimal livestock health. It is nature’s most complete source of bioavailable minerals, vitamins, and beneficial phytonutrients. Thorvin works by filling in micronutrient deficiencies. Every ounce provides nutritional essentials, for just pennies a day.

The most nutrient‐dense kelp animal supplement on the market, Thorvin is harvested from the cleanest kelp beds on earth, and then dried at controlled low temperatures using geothermal energy to concentrate its rich nutrient profile.

Thorvin contains one‐third less moisture, 30% more iodine, and is the only kelp supplement with a guaranteed selenium claim. Whether you are a formulator or farmer, you get more nutrients per pound, and feed less. Thorvin makes good business sense!

Blend Thorvin into feed formulas, or feed it alone or mixed with salt. Naturally chelated, Thorvin is bioavailable and readily utilized; it only takes small amounts to deliver benefits to livestock at all stages of life.

What the Experts Say 🤓

“I have observed Thorvin improving dairy cow health and performance on farms for 20+ years.” 

– Gary Zimmer, Biological Farming Expert & Dairy Farmer (WI)

“If you’re raising broilers, I sure hope you’re feeding Thorvin.”

– Kipp Jaszewski, Mountain Meadow Farm (VA)

“When I encounter pinkeye, hairy warts, ringworm, or breeding problems, my first question to farm clients is, ‘Are you feeding Thorvin?’”

– Paul Dettloff, D.V.M & Livestock Consultant (WI)

“I switched to Thorvin and saw an almost immediate difference in the quality of the milk – higher butterfat and higher production.” 

– Kristie Miller, landofhavilahfarm.com (MI)

“We prefer Thorvin. Other kelps just don’t contain the same mineral levels.”

– Joel Salatin, Farmer & Author, Polyface Farms (VA)
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How many chickens is the right number of chickens?

Lately I’ve been contemplating how many chickens is the right number of chickens. I think the sweet spot lies somewhere between the low end being the amount of chickens your property can feed with on site food sources (like Joel Salatin mentions in the audio) and the high end being the number you need for your personal egg consumption and hatching to sustain your flock.

Chickens are the least sustainable of all the animals we raise. That is partly because we’ve been raising enough chickens to provide hatching eggs for many other families, not just what we need here.

We recently used the last of the eggs we had stored from spring and summer, and we’re feeding about 150 chickens right now since there’s not much for them to forage during winter – while only collecting between 2 and 6 eggs per day since they don’t lay many eggs during the dark short days of winter. 😅

We do have some on site resources to feed them, but not enough for this size of a flock and so we’ve been refining our flock and hatching egg offerings for a number of years, getting closer to the target of that sweet spot. (We could have gone much faster with reducing our flock but we love all the breeds we have and find it so hard to pick!)

For 2023 we are focusing more on Bresse and less on having a lot of breeds for rainbow hatching eggs. Bresse are becoming more popular since they are a meat breed but they still provide plenty of very large eggs, and those eggs are hatchable too so unlike most meat birds that you buy a chicks, each family that keeps Bresse has their own source of chicks for both chicken eggs and meat to sustain their flock!

Have you figured out what your sweet spot is?